Survivor Samoa

Saulo, Neueli, Milo and Christopher
were the other contestants of "Survivor, Samoa!"
The popular CBS T.V. series, “Survivor,” has filmed their show three times in Samoa. The first time it was actually called “Survivor Samoa,” and aired in the fall of 2009, just before my arrival here with the Peace Corps. Once CBS found that Samoa was a “financially smart” location to film their show, they returned again to do back-to-back tapings which aired last year and into this year. As most of you know, the show’s whole premise is that the cast members are left on a “deserted island” where they have to battle, strategize and compete to stay in the game. Members of the teams are often shown eating weird creepy crawly things that even the locals would probably laugh at, and the cameras always are careful of where they aim their lenses, so as not to show the established villages just in the distance.

So in today’s modern world, does that secluded, far-away, paradise-like beach really exist? The answer is yes, and I’ve been there for my own Survivor, Samoa!

As many of you know, my former Peace Corps village of the past two years was in one of the most remote locations of the country. A long, winding, narrow road leads back to the place I called home. Looking towards the ocean, the land quickly drops off and slopes down to the mostly rocky shoreline. I loved running that road each evening and always wondering what a trip down that steep hill would be like. Every time I glanced down, I caught sight of a beautiful sandy beach that looked undisturbed. Like many of us often do, I put off taking the time or effort to go through with my idea, and when I left last December I was regretting having not made the journey.

However, this year I took the bold step and planned my expedition. I decided I wanted to get down to that beach and spend the night. I also knew that I didn’t have enough guts to go alone, so I asked Milo, Saulo, Neueli and Christopher if they would travel with me. Although they were excited about the idea, I actually had to talk them into going with me, mostly because they were afraid of ghosts that they said were down there! After I talked some sense into them, they were all on board.

We went a couple of weeks ago; they were still on school holiday. I did some basic shopping for crackers and biscuits to take with us. I wanted to build a house exclusively from what nature had to offer—palm branches and tree limbs, but Saulo with a bit more foresight, suggested we bring one of his dad’s blue tarps. This would later prove to be a good decision, and Saulo reminded me of it a few times as well. Milo’s contribution was the machete and each of us packed our own backpack with a change of clothes.

Off we went down the road at about 3:30 in the afternoon. Within 10 minutes we reached the path at the entrance into the woods that took us down to the beach. I was expecting a 45 minute hike down there, with the possibility of climbing over big rocks and hanging onto ferns and other vegetation to keep my balance, but I found out quickly that it was much easier than that. Within 15 minutes we had arrived and although I was happy to be there, I was kicking myself for having not taken advantage of this secluded and relaxing place for the past two years!

The guys didn’t waste a minute in starting to get our shelter built. Although the sun was shining when we arrived, with this being Samoa, it can rain at any moment, and especially during the night hours. So Milo sent Christopher over to the nearest coconut tree to start cutting branches off which would be used to make a wall around the exterior. Saulo and Neueli started taking vines off the nearby trees to use to suspend the blue tarp over a large limb they had rested between tree branches. I wanted to help but there really didn’t seem to be a place for me to fit in with the speed in which they were working. Before long our shelter was standing strong, and some more palm branches were brought in to lay on the ground for a softer padding.
Saulo worked on collecting firewood for the fire while Christopher and Neueli went to knock down a couple coconuts for us to drink. I was busy taking pictures, and before long Saulo had a huge fire blazing. We were now ready for anything that nature would throw at us, or at least we thought!

After eating our “dinner” made up of crackers and biscuits, we sat around the fire and visited for a while until everyone was ready for bed. When I went to lie down, I realized I was lying perpendicular to the palm branches we had put down, and as a result, the main stem of the palm frond made it feel like I was laying on a 2x4. Saulo was also complaining and was clever enough to do something about it. He cut off all the palms from the main stem and ended up making a much flatter and softer floor. Soon I was sleeping, but not for long, because the rain was about to arrive!

It was about 11p.m. when it started with a few drops, but then got harder and harder. The winds picked up and were batting at our walls we had just built hours before. Half of the shelter was drier than the other half, which resulted in Milo and Christopher getting pretty wet. Christopher tried moving to another part of the tent, but Milo seemed pretty calm and uninterested in the fact he was sleeping under a leak in the tarp. Within 20 minutes the rains let up, and Saulo reminded us all that it was his idea to bring the tarp and if he hadn’t we would have been a lot worse off than we were. I had to agree with him!

From that point on, the night seemed to drag by like one of those when you’re sick with the flu and you’re just praying the sun will rise to end the restlessness. I was the only one with a watch, which made me the point of reference for how much longer we had to do battle with nature. At 12:30 Saulo would ask me “What time is it?” At 12:58, Neueli would ask me, “What time is it?” When they weren’t busy asking me what time it was, I was looking at the watch myself, because I wanted to know as much as they did when the night would end! We had fun throughout the whole thing though, and had lots of laughs, but in the end, we were relieved when the first light became visible.

The morning revealed to us that a corner of our shelter’s roof had caved in and some of the exterior walls had given in to the wind and rain. Despite getting a bit damp, I was still very impressed by how well they built the tent, and their resourcefulness in doing so. We hung near the beach for a couple hours and they got the fire started up once again. We ended up heading back to the village by 8:00a.m. and ready for a change of clothes!

I was so glad that I made the time and took the effort to go camping. Saulo, Milo, Christopher and Neueli had a great time as well and were talking about going back again in the near future. Before any of those plans start to form, I would suggest we invest in a new tarp for our shelter. But the important part is, I had the chance to play Survivor Samoa, and not get voted off the island, so the experience was a huge success!



The stretch of beach as seen from the road high above.



Saulo working on our shelter!



Milo cutting palms for the fale.



Enjoying the quiet beach.



Saulo was in charge of the fire. We brought a box of matches with us, so it wasn't as bad as having to rub sticks together.



The fire blazzing and the house had been built.



Neueli enjoying our new dwelling.



Enjoying a fresh coconut.



The sunrise finally came!!



Saulo just hanging out.




















Enjoying the beach before heading back to the village.














Nice moves Neueli!

Happy Golden Jubilee, Samoa!

Samoa's National flag: the red representing courage,
the blue freedom, and the white purity. The five stars
resemble the constellation of the Southern Cross.
During my time in Samoa, I have come to better appreciate how well this country has maintained some of its most ancient and sacred traditions, despite the influence of competing outside forces. Samoans are believed to have settled on these islands over 2,000 years ago! Throughout that long history, there were moments of peace, yet times of war, like when Tongans invaded the islands in the year 600 and occupied Samoa for hundreds of years! But those troubling events of the beginning eventually ended and led to more peaceful times. The big day for Samoa arrived on June 1, 1962, when they took a monumental and bold step into their future by becoming the first Pacific island to gain independence.Since that time, Samoa has had much growth and change, yet so much of what was then, still is now.

Just a couple of weeks ago, Samoa reflected back on its history to celebrate its 50 years of independence. In a country with just 180,000 people, the build-up to this celebration was one of great excitement where everyone seemed to have a role to play in marking the 50th birthday! It felt like the whole country rallied around the cause.

It started out with people attaching small Samoan flags to the exterior of their cars, and bus drivers doing the same to their buses. All businesses also seemed to have a Samoan flag hanging in their front window, or one of the commemorative “50th flags.” Many villages were stringing decorative carnival flags from power poles, and the government did the same in front of its office buildings. Other villages placed fire torches along the road which allowed the feeling of excitement to last through the night hours. The government invested a large sum of money on decorative street flags that had the logo for the 50th anniversary, a picture of one of the old boats that the Samoans first sailed on. These flags hung from nearly every light post throughout town, and a larger flag placed on the front of the parliament building.If all the flags and banners weren’t enough, there were t-shirts and ie lava lavas, special sales and big promotions by many businesses, including the telephone companies. Everyone wanted to contribute. Some people had painted signs for their front yards, or spray painted the number 50 on cement walls or walkways.

Perhaps one of the most talked about events leading up to the independence weekend was the UB40 concert, which was to be held in Apia Sports Park. Tickets were on sale at one of the stores in the capital for 30 tala; anyone who was anybody had a ticket or knew someone who had one! It was great business for the telephone company, Blue Sky, who were the lead sponsors of the event. Billboards announcing the concert were put in the villages on the outskirts of the capital, which seemed to add fuel to the conversation as buses drove by each day!

In the final days before the big event, every light post, power pole, road sign and guard rail leading into and throughout the capital got braided with palm fronds, and at all the intersections in town, baskets were woven from the palm branches and then the national flower, the Teuila, placed inside as a decorative bouquet. As I saw all of this unfolding, I realized Samoa wasn’t holding back on the amount of manpower they were willing to put forth to make the celebration one to remember. The final touches in decorations came by the city turning on the colorful lights that hang along Beach Road throughout the year and are only lit for special occasions.

My days were kept busy with final rehearsals with the Catholic youth marching band I have been working with. We had a handful of public performances we had been scheduled for and the students of the band grew more excited as the events drew closer. One of our first performances was a marching and concert band performance where guests had to buy a ticket to the “Corporate Table” event for 500 tala a table. This ticket included a full meal, including a size two pig per table, and beverages (some being alcoholic). This was the first time the band wore their new marching uniforms which had been made in New Zealand and flown over just in time for the big week!

Our second performance was marching at the parade on June 1st, the actual anniversary of Independence. Since the parade started early in the morning, groups had to arrive well before to get staged for the event, so this meant our band leaving the Catholic retreat center where we had been camping, at 3:00a.m. in the morning. Once at the parade staging grounds, we found ourselves still in the midst of pre-dawn darkness and standing shoulder to shoulder next to thousands of other Samoans who had signed up for the parade with nearly every organization, school or committee this country has ever known!

It was one huge mass of humanity, and it didn’t move for a long, long time.
Samoans are great at packing close to each other: they do it on the crowded buses, and when shoving their way forward in the “line” at the wharf to buy a ferry ticket. If it hadn’t been for this previous experience of being so close to your neighbor, I’m not sure they would have survived standing at the parade entrance for over 5 hours without food or water! It was so tight you could barely move an arm to wipe the sweat off your face which was caused by the intense heat from the sun once it rose.
As we stood there and listened to one long speech after another from the highest members of the government, everyone had the same idea to pass the time by sending a text message or getting online through their phone because all the phones were jammed and you couldn’t make a call or send a text message without half a dozen attempts first!

The parade took so long to get through because there were over 150 groups signed up to march, and some of those groups had over 1,000 people marching (mostly schools with large enrolments). We were number 81 in the line-up. Once we finally started to move at 11:45a.m. (we had lined up at 6:30a.m.) we had the honor of marching before dozens and dozens of heads of state, parliament members and ambassadors from around the world. There were dignitaries there from Pacific Islands such as Niue, Tonga, Vanuatu, Tokelau and the Solomons. There were guests there representing Australia, New Zealand, China, Japan, Germany, France and The United States. It was a first for me to be able to march before such high public officials, and I’m sure a moment the Catholic youth won’t soon forget either.

That Friday afternoon, I met up with Saulo and Neueli, my friends and former students from my Peace Corps village. They had come into town to visit with me and enjoy the many Independence Day celebrations that were taking place. They seemed to have as much electricity running through them as the rest of the country did that day! We enjoyed walking around and smelling all the BBQ stands selling food, and listening to the music being pumped through big speakers in front of the government building. There were large Navy ships in Apia Harbor from Australia, New Zealand and the United States in conjunction with the celebrations. We walked over together and nearly got on board one of the boats before we found out we weren’t allowed to be in that vicinity…oops!
That evening we attended the much talked about UB40 concert, full of great Reggae music, which put the thousands in attendance in a great mood. The size of the stage, speakers, fancy lighting and smoke got the attention of Saulo and Neueli. When we entered into Apia Sports Park where the concert was held, I could hear Saulo counting the number of speakers under his breath! We met up with others from my Peace Corps village and for the second time that day, I found myself being packed into a human glob that allowed for little movement.

The evening finished off with a big fireworks show in Apia Harbor. Since I’ve been in Samoa the past two years, I haven’t seen fireworks since July of 2009. This time I was with Saulo and Neueli which made it really special, because I realized how accustomed I had become to seeing them throughout my life. I asked the boys if they had ever seen fireworks before and Saulo said only small ones in the village at Christmas time. It was fun watching the fireworks, but it was just as much fun listening to Saulo and Neueli’s expressions.

As the fireworks exploded, Saulo made a comment about all the smoke being created. He said something that about made me fall over! He said the smoke was going to burn a whole in the ozone. I had to stop for one second and think about what he said, but then remembered that I had taught a lesson back on Earth Day in April of 2010, over 14 months ago, where we talked about the harmful emissions that damage the ozone layer. We had made diagrams which then hung in my classroom all of last year. But I was so proud of Saulo for remembering something I thought he had long ago forgot about. It was another reminder to me of how I have no idea what impacts I’ve had on those I’ve met here in Samoa. It gave me another boost of confidence and reassurance that I have spent the last two years of my life here in Samoa well.

And so this blog turns back to Samoa, and about the 50 years it has celebrated. As I stood in that parade block with all those other Samoans on the morning of June 1st, I remember listening to the speeches being given by the Heads of Stateand wondering what my place is in Samoa; how were those speeches relevant to me, an “outsider,” an American. For a moment I felt like the anniversary day wasn’t at all relevant to me because this isn’t my country, my culture, my home, but then one of the people giving a speech mentioned the Peace Corps in their remarks and it clicked for me!

Yes, indeed there was a relevance to my being there and celebrating with the Samoans. When I chose to dedicate two years of my life by coming here to Samoa to serve as a teacher, learn their language, eat their food, dress in their clothes, visit, laugh and cry with them, I was becoming a part of that 50 year road map which led to this celebration, and which will someday lead to the 100th celebration! I am a part of Samoa’s past, present, and future. This is my home in so many ways, this is a place I take much pride in, the same pride that Samoa has for their country on this 50th anniversary!







One of the many posts in town that got decorated with palm fronds.





One of the band studetns trudging through the mud at marching rehearsal.

















We had the band spell out "SAMOA" for our marching show. Here you can see the "SAM" For not having any yard markers or lines, they did a great job!





Spelling out "SAMOA" with the "OA" visibe in this shot.





Standing in front of the covernment building before one of our performances.
















I was lucky to bump into my Peace Corps friends before the parade! Natalie is on my left, from Group 83 and Lilli on my right from my group, 82!



The United States Ambassador to Samoa and New Zealand, Mr. David Huebner, attending the formal ceremonies on June 1st.



The people wait, wait, and wait some more at the parade staging grounds! If you listen carefully, you can hear the sound of Digicel and Blue Sky's phone networks jamming!



After meeting up with Neueli and Saulo in the capital on June 1st. Saulo was trying to make a statement with the girls with his new hat and shirt!



Saulo and Neueli after being denied access to the Navy ships in the background!



At the wharf.



Killing time before heading to the UB40 concert.



















Saulo and Neueli walking to Apia park for the UB40 concert.











Inside Apia Sports Park waiting for the UB40 concert to begin.










The line of tents along Beach Road where vendors were. It smelled amazing with all the BBQ!



With Saulo and Neueli in front of government building.



With our bands drum major and the taupou!



Getting ready to march over to begin the last of our performances for the Independence Day celebrations!

The Reunion

Milo and Saulo on April 21st with their new shirts.

On April 21st, I lived a dream. I traveled back to the village where I had lived for two years during Peace Corps. I had dreamed about what that day would be like, and about being with those I had come to love so much during my time there. Our final day together, last December, was one of the hardest and most emotional days of my life, but there I was again, traveling in the reverse direction down that long road that winds back to one of the most secluded places of this island nation!

I had called the week before to tell Milo’s family that I would be coming, and asked if I could stay with them at their house. They were my neighbors the past two years, and I had spent so many great days with them in the past. When I arrived, just before dark, everything felt familiar, yet in some ways like it had been ten years! It was hard to get a sense of time that had passed. I first gave a hug to Naomi, Milo’s mom, and then to his Dad, Taunaola. Several of the kids from the village had also gathered at Milo’s house to welcome me, and Saulo was the first one to walk up to me. Even though it had only been four months since we had seen each other, he looked older and more grown up. I just stood there and looked at him, and then Milo, and Mareta, all these people I couldn’t believe I was with once again! I just kept thanking God for that opportunity to be with them.

Within five minutes of arriving I was sitting in my normal spot on the floor at Milo’s house, being served a huge feast and drinking a fresh coconut! The kids bustled around with serving the food and clearing dishes. There was an electricity of excitement in the air, and it was heard in our voices and seen on our faces. Saulo went for my camera and quickly started taking pictures and videos on his own; I had forgotten how tech savvy he had become during the past couple of years! I also noticed how much more advanced his English was. He had always been one of my most advanced students, and since my leaving, he had only seemed to improve more!

After dinner I gave gifts to the kids and Milo’s family. I had made copies of many of the home videos I had taken of our two years together, and put them on DVD for them. Milo’s family has a small portable DVD player, so we were able to watch the videos that night. It was a trip back into the past, even as we were so much about living in the present moment.

That evening we walked down into the village and I said hi to one person after another who asked how I had been, what I was doing back in Samoa, and how my family was back home. That night, and throughout the rest of the weekend, I began to realize once again how amazingly lucky I was to have that great village as my site for my Peace Corps service. I knew I was lucky at the time, when I was living in the moment, but going back after being away, I was jolted once again at how much those people really loved me, respected me, and treated me like one of their own.

On Sunday of that weekend, I went to the Catholic Church and saw all my friends there. Samoans sing with such power and harmony, and the kids especially bolt out each and every note with such gusto. It was so good to hear that energy and praise to God. I was given a flower ula at mass, something that had always been a tradition. After mass I went back to Milo’s house where we all had a huge Toana’i (Sunday lunch). All my favorite Samoan foods were right there for me to eat again, and I didn’t hold back. Milo’s mom sent one of the kids to sit by my side and fan the flies away from my food. So many other customs and traditions like that took place over the weekend, ones which I had sort of forgotten about after returning to the States last December. It was so common for me to have my food fanned while I ate meals in Samoa, but then once I returned to my own culture where that isn’t done, I had started to forget about those things, so it was really an enriching experience to go back and live those parts of my life again.

That Sunday afternoon a big group of us walked up the road and back to our old swimming spot near a small waterfall. It was a long standing tradition for us, and the kids said they hadn’t been back there in the past four months since I had left. We finished the trip of with drinking fresh coconuts which some of the boys climbed the trees for.

On Sunday night I spent the night with Saulo’s family. While visiting with him and his family, he brought out a pile of papers to show me; they were all the letters I had sent him the past four months. He had saved them all, and I was impressed.

The next morning it was time for me to head back to my current village, and all the kids had to go back to school. I got on the bus at Saulo’s house and made that very familiar ride into the capital. I said goodbye to Saulo and the other kids when they got off at their school in a neighboring village. I was already looking forward to the next time we would meet! It was a weekend I will not soon forget, because when dreams come true, the memories withstand the passing of time.

Milo & Saulo with their motivational posters I gave them using the famous quote my Uncle Jamie told me when I needed some inspiration.

The kids watching the DVD I made for them of my videos from Samoa for the past two years.

Neueli and I meet for the first time in 4 months! He's getting taller!

After church on Sunday with my former students!

Walking back to the village from the river.

With Saulo, Neueli and Milo.

The two trouble makers!

Enjoying an evening walk in my old village with all my former students!

Back to the Islands

Flying in along the coastline
of my former village!

After three planes and over 14 hours of flying, there she was, sitting like a jewel in the South Pacific: Samoa! Her turquoise lagoons contrasted by the steep, lush mountains of her interior were the first sights I saw out my plane window on April 14th as we started our decent. After hours of flying over nothing but ocean, not a spec of land in sight, there was the place I had called home for over two years, with all of the memories rushing through my mind. For the first time, I finally realized how small Samoa really is! Out my plane window I could nearly see the entire length of Upolu (one of two major islands that make up the majority of Samoa). I thought it was special that my seat happened to be on the left side of the plane, allowing me to have that great view, and how amazing to be flying along the coastline of my former village! When I said goodbye to Samoa last December, I wasn’t sure when I would return again, if ever! But as the plane made its landing, I was able to experience what it’s like to have a dream come true!

Stepping off the plane and descending the steps, the heat felt warm, just as I had remembered. Inside the airport, my first glance found Lilly and Chelsea, two Peace Corps friends who had come out to welcome me. Lilly is from my Peace Corps Group, 82, and has extended for a third year. Chelsea is in Group 83. They had a small palm woven fan for me, which I didn’t hesitate to use right away, considering I was still in jeans from the long flight from Hawai’i. As happy as I was to meet up with Lilly and Chelsea, I had to work on finding my new hosts from the Catholic church, so I got on the phone and tracked them down; they were on the other side of the room, and quickly came over and placed an ula around my neck and I suddenly felt at home with my fan and flowered necklace

Loading my bags into the church’s van, with Lilly and Chelsea along for the ride, we drove towards town. Even though I had been gone for four months, everything felt familiar. How refreshing it was to see kids and families outside and waving at me as we went along. Vaega and Anna, took us up to my formal welcoming ceremony in my new village where the Archbishop was waiting for me, along with the band committee and band students.

This return to Samoa has been led by the Holy Spirit! I was contacted through the Notre Dame Band about coming here to help assist in building up a band for Samoa’s celebration of 50th independence on June 1. An American priest who had lived in Samoa for over two decades and who is close friends with the Archbishop, was asked by the Archbishop to find someone for the job. He had contacted the Notre Dame Band about someone coming over to lead the program, and that’s when my name was mentioned. I will also be working with three Notre Dame Band students who will be coming to help the band in June and July! My work will continue through December, continuing to work with the bands for big events, such as a Catholic Youth Rally in July where Samoa will host students from Australia, New Zealand, the United States and Tokelau. There is also a big dedication of the new cathedral in December that I will be preparing the band to perform for.

Once I arrived at my new village back on April 14th, I was all smiles when I saw the band students put on a small marching show for me! I was very impressed by their skill level and knew there was already a solid base of talent developed and some leaders within the band had already emerged. As I sat there and listened to the band perform, and was served a huge meal, I was reminded of all the reasons I love Samoa, and why I wanted to return. Samoans give so much love and welcome to their guests, and although I hardly feel like a guest in Samoa, after having lived here for more than two years, they treat me with the same respect they would any other visitor to their country.

This mission I’m on now, here in Samoa, has many differences from my years as a Peace Corps Volunteer, yet many things feel the same. I am still here as someone who wants to reach out an help those who have asked for my help, and I am one who still has a great desire to learn more about their culture, language and traditions. I still find that my most enjoyable days are those where I spend time with neighbors, friends and students, getting to know more about them, and listening to their stories.

And over the next seven months, I hope to share my stories here with all of you, just as I’ve done in the past. We aren’t always given second chances to get to go back and do things we forgot to do, or wish we had done, but by the grace of God, I’ve been given that chance here in Samoa. Since being back, I’m taking the chance to do things I didn’t do the first time around. When I got home in December, I kicked myself on a number of occasions when I realized I forgot to take a certain picture, or visit a certain place. Well now I’m back, and the opportunity waits for me again; all I need to do is grab it. It’s great to be back “home”—it’s great to be back in the islands!

Mom and I at Chicago O'Hare before heading out on my 7,000 mile journey!

Dad and I at the airport.

My plane from Honolulu to Samoa on Air Pacific.

The breakfast served on Air Pacific was amazing!

Chelsea and Lilli at the airport to greet me! Good to see Peace Corps family!

Band students from my village welcomed me after my arrival to Samoa!

The Archbishop receiving the ava during my welcome ceremony.