Party Crasher

Like the Trade Winds along its cost, I blew back into Samoa this week. Samoa was calling once again; a whisper from afar. I was finishing work on January 12th and with a week and a half off, I decided just a few hours before boarding my first of three flights that indeed I would trek down to Samoa for an early-year visit. When I got back from Austin in the morning that Saturday, I drove home, changed out of my uniform, unpacked my bags and loaded in some ie lava lavas and for the first time, my tent which I hoped to set up next to the South Pacific, under the Southern Cross! Packed minimally, yet sufficiently, off I went, back to the airport I had just come from. Chicago to San Francisco, then onto Nadi, Fiji where I have connected through many times. From there it was a short two hour flight to Apia to finish things up. Flying out on Saturday evening and landing in Samoa on Monday, I actually had a perfectly good excuse for not attending Sunday Mass, given my hop across the Date Line erased the day from my existence.

We landed in the late afternoon around 4p.m. When I was last in Samoa in June I met a really nice taxi driver named Tau (pronounced Tah-o) who is in his early 20s. So I pleasantly surprised to see him standing at the arrivals gate this week! He remembered me too. Perhaps because I had tipped him so well and that not a lot of Palagis (pronounced Pah-long-eze) speak Samoan and wear local clothes when they get off a flight. So when we met again on Saturday it was a warm reunion. I asked if he could drive me out my village. He eagerly agreed and we loaded into his car. Soon though, we stopped at his family’s home where he said his dad would drive me the rest of the way; he was president of his church youth group and had an evening meeting. So we switched vehicles at his house and his dad drove me the rest of the way. I forgot my sunglasses in Tau’s car, but other than that the trip back to my village was just as enjoyable as always.

Tau, my taxi driver

It’s approaching 10 years in October that I first arrived to Samoa. Every time I return, there is a smile on my face and an excitement of the time to be spent there. I’m also very reflective of those years of the past, the challenges tackled, the growth made. This visit was just as memorable: the kids continue to grow—some of them aren’t kids anymore. My name sake, Kyle, is nearly 6 years old and has warmed up to me to the point where he’s my little shadow. Some of my former students from years 7 and 8 now have their own kids, or spouses. Telephone service has continued to improve and social media (namely Facebook) has continued to find its hold on youth and adults alike.

There’s also the subtle changes which I noted. A large mango tree which I had always passed every day on my runs had fallen over and was in the process of being cut up into many pieces. During mango season when the mangos would fall onto the road and then be run over by cars, it always left a smell of fresh fruit in the air under that tree, a smell I’ll always remember. Also, the volleyball court in my village has been replaced with a cricket court, uniting the entire village, men, woman and children alike. In a time when so many in Samoa are using social media, it’s refreshing to still see old sports being enjoyed by so many.

In medical news, it came to my attention that about 20 boys and young men had been paid a visit from the doctor, having circumsition performed. At first I thought they were joking, but when overhearing their parents talking about the painful experience their boys had undergone, it had to be believed. I could only assume that since many children are born at home, circumsition is done later in life; although it was a scary thought for me to have. This was all a reminder to me of the sometimes peculiar ways Samoans deal with such topics: PDA is all but non existent in Samoa, and most sex eduction in schools is very limited. But yet you have families laughing and talking about circumsition of 20 year olds around meal time. There definitely is a contrast to be recognized.

The beautiful road from the
main road in Falefa to my old village

Overall, the week was a restful one. Days were spent with morning runs along my old running route to Falefa, visiting families in the village, swimming in the ocean and naps in the afternoon. Evening brought prayer, dinner, and Phillipino movies with English subtitles. The camping experience in the tent turned out to be a hot one, literally—and so hot that I only camped out one night with Kyle and let his brother, Pulumu, sweat away the other night.

Friday was spent in the capital, Apia. I took Kyle and a few of his siblings to McDonald’s for breakfast. Besides the breakfast sandwiches, the air-conditioning was a big hit, and all in a newly remodeled restaurant. After I took them back to the bus I met up with an old friend, Seti, who is from Falefal and does a lot of good work in Samoa related to sporting events and attracting athletes from around the world. He was also helpful to me when I created the Samoan Youth Empowerment Initiative in 2012 to bring Milo, Saulo and Neueli to the United States. Seti and I met over lunch and Pacific Jewel and had a good time catching up on our travels and life projects.

I also stopped by to see my good friend Mafi at the Peace Corps office. Peace Corps has new digs and so I got the tour from Mafi. For the the past couple of years I take my old Economists to the Peace Corps office so the volunteers in country can stay somewhat up to date on world events, so I dropped a bundle of those off with Mafi and delivered her birthday present. Mafi had just started with Peace Corps in 2009 as my language instructor but has moved her way up in the organization and is now in charge of program development and training. More than a valuable resource for volunteers, she’s a good listener and true friend.
Mafi and I in Apia at the new PC Office

I stayed in Apia Friday night at Tanoa Hotel because my flight was leaving so early on Saturday morning. I decided to do dinner at the Yacht Club, an old favorite spot for Peace Corps Volunteers during my time in Samoa, and for the ex-pat community as well. It felt good to be back there and enjoying dinner over the water. Many conversations unfolded there over the years about frustrations of life as a volunteer and about where life would take us after Peace Corps. It’s interesting to be present in a place having lived through significant moments which were so defining.

Walking the sea wall to the Yacht Club

When I went to pay my bill, I realized I didn’t have enough cash. Knowing the answer to my own question, I still asked if they accepted card. They said no. I asked if there was an ATM. They said no, but they explained that if I went next door to Sails, another restaurant, and paid there, I could bring my receipt back and show it to them. I could only assume both restaurants are owned by the same owner. But I suspect they thought I might dash without actually paying my bill, so with a full and crowded restaurant and with only two servers, one of them was instructed to walk with me a quarter of a mile next door to Sails to pay my bill. It was while walking over that the woman learned I spoke Samoan, so she warmed up to me pretty quick and we began talking and joking around. I asked her if this wasn’t a hassle for her being so busy and having to walk with me next door. She seemed to appreciate the break.

The birthday boy whose party I
unexpectedly walked in on.

When we walked up, there was a huge sign that indicated the place was closed to the public for a private event. But I followed her instructions and went to the bar to pay. The place was bustling with young adults and middle aged Samoans too. I asked the woman behind the bar what the event was and she said a 21st birthday party. I asked where the guest of honor was. Feeling the humor of the moment, having to walk to another restaurant to pay my bill, I called the 21 year old birthday boy over and introduced myself. I wished him a happy birthday and could see the puzzled look on his face, as if he thought he should know me. I never fully explained what I was doing there. Had I not needed to get back to the hotel for some rest I probably would have sat down and started a conversation with someone, knowing full well I’d be welcomed with warm affection because that’s the kind of people that Samoans are.

I keep going back and keep reflecting on the past because my time and connection with Samoa has changed my life. It has made me fearless, outgoing, provocative, thoughtful, inquisitive, stronger, and happier. The small and unscripted memories mean the most, and help tell the story of how Samoa has become like a second home for me over the years.

Until next time…

I hiked down to a new spot near my village.

Milo and I at his house.

Neueli and I in Saletele.

Helping Kyle write "our" name.